Cooling off in the Riviera hinterland

The Italian Riviera has a mild climate - we seldom have the sweltering summer days that the rest of the Mediterranean endures. Nevertheless, sometimes it is worth escaping the coast and heading inland to the cool, high mountains. If you have a day to spare and a small car, a moped or a bicycle to navigate steep roads and narrow mountain passes, we suggest the following beautiful itinerary. 

Motorists and cyclists alike will enjoy the beauty of the Sanremo hinterland

Starting in bustling Sanremo, head west along the coast to the stately resort town of Bordighera. Both these coastal towns are worth a visit, but for this trip we suggest pressing on up the Nervia valley, to Dolceacqua. This medieval stone town (in fact all towns on this itinerary are medieval and built of stone!) is famous for its fruity red wine production, and its ancient castle and single-arch bridge that were painted by Monet.  

Picture perfect: the bridge of Dolceacqua

Further up the valley is Apricale, another charming town with commanding views and a thriving trade in pottery, ceramics and other crafts. Deeper into the Nervia Valley lies Pigna, a genuine jewel of the region. This town is a joy to explore, with winding alleys opening up to adorable little squares, often with fountains of fresh mountain water. Its church, dedicated to San Michele Arcangelo, is a rare example of gothic architecture in this region, with a spectacular altarpiece. 

Looming over Pigna is Castel Vittorio, just a few kilometres up the valley, with a fine restaurant offering magnificent views. From there, we suggest driving east, across to Bajardo. This town itself is somewhat lacking in charm but at 900 metres above sea level, the air is fresh and cool even in summer, and the views of the Alps as you drive up are worth it.

The town of Pigna, with Castel Vittorio in the distance

From there, start a slow descent back to the coast (the roads really are narrow and very winding). You'll come to Ceriana, a beautiful farming community built on the ruins of a Roman fort. Its worth picking up some taggiasche olive oil and Ceriana sausage as you pass through. From there it is around 12 kilometres back to Sanremo.

The ancient town of Ceriana

Without stops the trip would take around 2 hours and 15 minutes, but where's the fun in that? Take your time to explore each little town on the route, as they all have something to offer. And the mountain forest views along the way make for a delightful trip.

Parc Départemental de la Grande Corniche: Commanding views over the Riviera

Yesterday, Riviera Route took a client to the Parc Départemental de la Grande Corniche, high above the French Riviera. It was a steep climb, but certainly worth the trip!

The road winds its way up from historic La Turbie, with its "Trophy of the Alps", a 1st Century B.C. Roman monument still standing. At 690 metres above sea level, one reaches a plateau with some of the most breathtaking views in Europe. 

The 1st Century B.C. "Trophy of the Alps" in La Turbie

From the Revère fort you have views of the most valuable coastline in France, from faraway St Tropez in the distant west, to the distinctive Cap Antibes and Cap Ferrat near Nice, through to the hill fortress of Èze in front of you and the protective mountains around Monaco to the East. The blue mass of the Mediterranean stretches out before you, dotted with yachts.

The historic village of Éze, high above the Riviera

The nature reserve has a beautiful walking and cycling path running along the plateau. We walked eastward for an hour without reaching the end, before we turned back. The stroll reveals glimpses down onto luxurious villas with swimming pools and terraced gardens, which are hidden from street view by high walls when you're down on the coast.

Further along the trail we had a clear view all the way across the border into Italy, and the resort town of Bordighera.

The French town of La Turbie with the Italian city of Bordighera in the distance

Turning our heads away from the sea, we could also see Alpine peaks, still capped with snow in June.

The snow-capped mountains of the Mercantour National Park

The park is the perfect place for a picnic on a clear, sunny day; perhaps with a bottle of champagne or Provençal rosé in an ice bucket, and a large Niçoise salad with freshly baked focaccia for everyone. Parfait!

Let the festivities begin

This weekend (11 & 12 May 2019) saw the annual MEDITaggiasca olive oil festival in Taggia, a town on the Italian Riviera about seven kilometres from Sanremo. It is a small historical town, and not very well-known. But almost all Italians will know its adjective, Taggiasca, because Taggiasca olives are considered some of the finest in the country. These small, dark olives produce a delicate, sweet and aromatic oil. Taggiasca olive oil always complements rather than overpowers the food it accompanies.

Sampling is encouraged at the MEDITaggiasca Food Festival

This is the first of the summer's food festivals across the Riviera. Every city and town holds some kind of a festival (sagra in Italian, fête or salon in French). Sometimes they are dedicated to a specific produce, while others are general opportunities to showcase the best of the region. Every weekend from now until the Autumn will see food festivals, making this an exciting time to visit the region. Winter is quieter, but not without its fun. Carnival season in February sees a lemon festival in Menton, and March brings La Fête de la Violette to Tourrettes-sur-Loup with myriad products made from local violet flowers. Seasonality and locality are very important on the Riviera. Restaurant menus change with the seasons. One of the delights of exploring this region is to learn what to eat, when to eat it, and which towns specialise in which products. Visiting Taggia is a pleasure, and not only during the olive oil festival. The town was a Roman settlement (some villa ruins remain), and in the Middle Ages it became an important stop on the Via Aurelia route that connects Rome with Spain, via Southern France. Taggia's Convent of San Domenico is home to important artworks from the Renaissance. The historic centre is intact and unspoilt.

Taggia is a beautiful medieval Riviera town

Taggia's oil festival has officially kicked off the season of the festivals on the Riviera. So come join in the fun this Summer!